And so, a scant 10 days after it began, my Greenlandic adventure is at an end. I got to experience big polar science, witness the first suggestions of climate change in the form of retreating glaciers and early mosquito and flower emergence, and eat some delicious whale and cured fishes of many sorts.
Camping near the ice edge.
Talking arctic science with grad students from other universities.
The Søndrestrom Incoherent Scatter Radar Facility.
Three things I still can’t wrap my head around:
I met the U.S. Ambassador to Denmark.
The ice sheet is huge. Really, really huge.
I went to Greenland?!
It was a fun trip, both too short and just long enough. Until my next adventure, kasuuta and taku! —Hannah
Our final day in Greenland was best characterized by last-minute good intentions and chaos as we tried to do everything we had been putting off all week. After breakfast, we visited the Kangerlussuaq Museum. As we were driving up, the man who is the museum (ticket taker, curator, and docent) ran up and greeted us enthusiastically and followed us around asking if we had any questions and telling us all about the history of the army base and airstrip known as Kangerlussuaq. One gets the impression that his summers (he goes back to Denmark in the winter—there isn’t a lot of activity once the snow and darkness set in) are usually spent in quiet contemplation of the photos documenting the comings and goings (glamorous actresses, well-known politicians, and eminent scientists--Niel Bohr once sat on the porch outside!), the history of aviation, polar science and the military in and out of Kangerlussuaq, and the occasional rogue wildlife that has wandered in from the tundra (including the skin of the only documented polar bear from the area and photos and cartoons of “Terrible Willie”, the musk ox that held Kangerlussuaq in his sway, often thwarting capture attempts and running amok on the runway and through the streets).[ibimage==694==310-scale-rounded==none==self==ibimage_img-left]
After that enlightening stop, a few of us did some sight-seeing, including driving up to the TACAN radar station, which offered great views of Kangerlussuaq, as well as the surrounding tundra and lakes. While up there, we ran into an international group of wealthy tourists (accompanied by a police escort) that were taking a “study tour” of Greenland, including several men in dress shoes wielding very nice birding telescopes and fancy SLR cameras and several women in precarious heels that were much more interested in picking an herb that looked like rosemary and smelled like Lysol to steep for aquavit. It was a little surreal.
We came back for lunch, wrapped up souvenir shopping, and returned all our glass bottles to collect the deposit. This involved feeding each bottle onto a conveyor belt with a scanner that counted and verified that the bottles were the appropriate size. It was very cool, and made me once again yearn for a similar system in Kansas. Once business in town was wrapped up and all the students and professors were rounded up, we ran back out to the tundra, where Sharon Billings, KU’s Ecology and Evolutionary Biology professor on the trip, taught us about how tundra soil forms, including mechanical and chemical weathering, as well as decomposition (which is MUCH slower in the Arctic than elsewhere, since colder temperatures impede the metabolism of bacteria that do the decomposing). We then ran back to pack and eat dinner. After dinner, there was more packing, hunting down equipment we had borrowed from KISS, and socializing with the other scientists passing through Kangerlussuaq on the way to or from fieldwork.
The next day was a lot of hurry up and wait with the Air National Guard before getting on the C-130 back to the States—it was a straight shot back, since it is the beginning of the field season and much more equipment is being flown into Greenland than out. I got to go up in the cockpit, which was awesome—there is a ridiculous amount of equipment and space up there, including a bunk where one of the crew members was taking a nap. Dinner was a much-anticipated slice of pizza at New York Pizza and Fried Chicken in Schenectady—it turns out I really missed pizza! The following day, Thursday, was another day of travel from Schenectady to D.C. to Kansas City on United Airlines regional jets that made me long for the freedom of a C-130, where you can get up and move around as much as you like. Up next, the wrap up. —Hannah
Today was full of wow! It was another day of driving, hiking, sun, and awe in the vicinity of Russell Glacier. On the way there we spotted our first real live musk ox, an enormous hairy mound of beast that seemed to remind everyone either of Snuffleupagu, a bantha from Star Wars, or Ludo from Labyrinth. This was followed by our first caribou, a young one with tiny velvety nubs of horns that ran toward us, around us, and off to the river again.
We stopped for lunch at part of the glacier that ends in a pool which emptying out into the river next to a really nice beach. The wind off of the glacier was bitterly cold, but once we got within fifty meters of the glacier, it blocked the wind and made plopping down on the glacial till for a sandwich and a Coke absolutely lovely. We sat around for awhile waiting for the glacier to cave, but no such luck. Extra-special bonus: first Gyrfalcon of the trip!
As we drove on, we also spotted a flock of what else but Canada geese. Kind of annoying, since we see them all the time at home, but neat since they were the first Greenlandic Canada geese of the trip (does that make sense?). We also spotted another duck, this one closer and in better light, but still from a moving car—my guess would be a male pintail, but I may correct that in a later post…
At last, we arrived at a spot from which we could hike out onto the glacier. At first, it looked like huge, random piles of gravel and mud, but as we went father, jumping across a shallow stream, the crunch of ice underfoot and the suddenly visible infinity short snowy spires and cliffs let us know exactly where we were. There was an abundance of melt-water streams with tasty cold, clear water—unusual this early, or so I'm told. The two professors on the trip that had previously visited the glacier commented that they had never seen streams this large or plentiful on the glacier before. We also found a moulin, or glacial mill, which is a large funnel in the ice where melt water streams drain onto the glacier bed below. Tomorrow we're camping, so I’ll be taking a brief hiatus. Cheers! —Hannah
This morning getting up early to look for birds, this time down by the rapids at the bridge, proved sadly fruitless. Except there were rapids, which was in itself neat.
After breakfast and through incredible serendipity combined with finagling by our project leader, we met with the United States’ ambassador to Denmark (which still retains some degree of control over Greenland), Laurie Fulton. She was on her way back from visiting a research facility further north, and graciously made time for us—and seemed genuinely interested and engaged! She is very involved in encouraging intellectual trade between the U.S. and Denmark. Denmark has been very committed to green technology since the seventies, and by sharing their ideas with the U.S., the U.S. need not reinvent the wheel. Likewise, she is trying to encourage researchers, especially those working in Greenland, to take on Greenlandic students and trainees to help elevate the level of education in the country, only one third of which are considered "educated." She was a very neat lady.
After that meeting, we had some time to kill, so a few of the other students and I went with Kee, one of the KU Geography professors that is along on the trip and visited Kangerlussuaq in the1980, to find the Inuit ruins located near town. We did not find them. Instead we found a firing range, a caribou antler, and a very scummy pond with three minnows in it. Lunch at the airport was fantastic. Many kinds of cold cuts, delicious smoked and pickled fishes (salt cod and pickled herring!).
After lunch, we drove to NSF’s Sondrestrom Incoherent Scatter Radar Facility (we saw a couple of ducks in random lakes along the road, but they were all far away and horribly backlit. Curses!!). Our host there, Eggert, was the head engineer (from Iceland, wearing black socks, sandals, and shorts. He’s my favorite!) showed us around the facility, which shoots high-powered microwave and lasers into the atmosphere in order to measure fluctuations in the Earth’s magnetic field. There were huge magnets, transformers, and an enormous satellite dish that looked like something out of a James Bond movie (incidentally, it replaced an older dish elsewhere that actually appeared in GoldenEye!!). We also got to hear about the dangers of building on permafrost, which then melts and causes buildings to shift, windows to crack, and pipes to break, all things that tend to be a concern as summers increase in length and temperature.
Dinner was had at the Polar Bear Inn, home of the best Thai in town. For real, it was AMAZING—I had musk ox panang!! This was followed by a hike to Lake Ferguson, where we didn’t see any more new birds (goes without saying at this point), but we did find the Kangerlussuaq rowing club, a sign warning passers-by about musk ox, and a rock with a musk ox painted on it. Now it’s time to bury my head in the blankets and try not to imagine the sun sneaking in around the blackout shades. Till next time… —Hannah
Morning in Kangerlussuaq was not much different from afternoon or evening—sun shining cheerfully away, temperatures of around fifty degrees, and a light wind keeping away the hungry swarms of Satan’s air force known colloquially as “mosquitoes”. I got up early so I could get a first crack at wildlife, Greenland-style. It turns out KISS is right on the Watson River, which was a lovely morning scramble down fine silt dunes and over glacier- and water-carved rocks. I got my first looks of the trip at Snow bunting, Common redpoll, and Northern wheatear. On the way to breakfast at the canteen by the airport (where we will be eating our dinners as well) I spotted a raven.
After breakfast, we explored “downtown” Kangerlussuaq, which is heavily concentrated in approximately ten utilitarian buildings near the airport. This included a trip to the “grocery store”, where you can find oranges, pineapples, a variety of canned fishes, salt-covered licorice, beet salad, and waders. Pretty much all of the written labels and signs are in Danish, which not an area in which I am proficient. My great achievement at the grocery store was finding frozen torsk, or Atlantic cod. This may be the closest I get to a fish on the trip.
We spent the day driving and hiking around northeast of town, toward Russell glacier. We got to frolic on the tundra, which was delightfully spongy—like running on a wet mattress. There were lots of wildflowers, moss, lichens, and Lapland longspur. There was also evidence of ptarmigans, but none were to be found. Too bad, but I’ll keep looking. We also climbed Sugarloaf, from which we got some AWESOME views of the glacier and fjord.
We then travelled further upriver and got our first looks at the ice sheet, which still seems very unreal, despite the fact the 80% of the people at KISS are various types of geoscientist, desperate to get out on the ice. Some Danes just came back from an attempt to get to Summit, the base of ice sheet operations. They got all the way there, and had to turn back without landing because one of the airplane’s engines failed, which would have made taking off from the ice impossible. They’re still in a pretty good mood, and helped us translate the canteen menu for the week. Sky sauce is “the fat and proteins that drip off the meat during cooking, and congeal into a sort of pudding”, which is a much more interesting way of saying “it’s gravy”.
Of special note: talk around KISS is that not only has the yearly thaw of the glacier come two weeks early this year, but so have the mosquitoes and the wildflowers. Is it a signal of climate change? Only time will tell.
This morning we woke up at 4 a.m. in Schenectady, New York, after an uneventful day of travel there from Kansas. The Air National Guard picked us up at the hotel and took us to the base. Once they had corralled all the scientists into a little room in a warehouse, they showed us the C-130 safety video. It turns out that the “Herc” comes equipped not only with flotation devices, but exposure suits for all passengers, full Arctic survival gear and something called an EPOS. Like its counterpart, the yellow-cup-and-don’t-worry-if-the-bag-doesn’t-inflate, the EPOS is what a passenger would use if cabin pressure were lost. UNLIKE the yellow-cup-etc, there are approximately 13 steps for correct use, and it is basically a plastic bag that one puts over one’s head. This, strangely, was not reassuring.
After a few hours of waiting (we were the second flight to take off that morning. The first flight had technical difficulties and had to turn back. Twice. Once because the number 4 engine wasn’t working), it was finally time to take off. After we were in the air, the loadmaster let us get up and wander around the plane. Approved activities included climbing up on top of the cargo crates and taking a nap. I found a box of my approximate length and width, and promptly fell asleep. That’s first-class flying.
We stopped to refuel in Goose Bay, Canada, at a tiny airport that boasted bathrooms, complimentary ice cream, and little else but tantalizingly close coniferous forest. After half an hour, we were back in the air. Shortly before landing, we flew over Greenland with clear skies and AMAZING views of the mountains and glaciers. There was no feigning blasé professionalism now—everyone on the plane was glued to a porthole ooh-ing and ah-ing.
On arrival and debarkation from the airplane, we were instantly swarmed by mosquitoes—the worst the pilot claims to have seen it in the years he’s been flying to Greenland. We were then bussed to the Kangerlussauq International Science Support (KISS) building, which is a homey mix of ex-military barracks, scientific enthusiasm, and Ikea flair. It is now 12.30 a.m. and the sun is still shining. Although the sun “sets” at midnight and “rises” at two, there is not even appreciable twilight. Tomorrow: ruins?
It’s finally starting to sink in that I am, in fact, leaving for Greenland on Tuesday. TUESDAY. GREENLAND. For the sake of you, the reader, as well as to drill the reality of what we are actually doing into my own head, here’s an introductory post.
We will spend Tuesday evening in Schenectady, New York. On Wednesday morning, and this is where the itinerary becomes surreal, we will be picked up at 5 am and transported to the Stratton Air National Guard Base, where we will meet up with the 109th Airlift Wing of the Air National Guard (unofficial motto: “You call, we haul.”) which works with the National Science Foundation’s Polar Field Services to provide logistical support to polar researchers. This is way “bigger” science than I have ever experienced!
From there, we join other scientists and cargo aboard a C-130 Hercules (for those of you, like myself, relatively unversed on the ins and outs of military aviation, it’s a HUGE 4-propeller airplane capable of transporting tanks) for the flight out to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, which will be our home for the next week. There may be a layover in Canada for refueling, there may not—we won’t know until we’re on board the aircraft.
Kangerlussuaq (“the Gateway to the Greenland Ice Sheet”) was founded during World War II as a U.S. airbase, served during the Cold War as Distant Early Warning (DEW) Line base (images of Dr. Strangelove come to mind), and now functions as a base of operations for NSF research on glaciology, biogeochemistry, and atmospheric science. We will be staying in the Kangerlussuaq International Science Support (KISS) building along with all manner of other polar researchers.
While we are in Greenland, we will be investigating the impacts of climate change in this unique environment—Greenland boasts the second-largest land-based ice sheet after Antarctica, and scientists are beginning to notice accelerations in the flow of glaciers off of this huge interior mound of ice. We will be visiting Russell Glacier, which is within easy driving distance of Kangerlussuaq, and, weather permitting, will spend a night camping within sight of it. There are also plans to visit Norse ruins (such settlers may have fallen victim to climate change during the Little Ice Age, depending on whom you ask), Sondrestrom Upper Atmospheric Research Facility, and the Kangerlussuaq Museum. I’ve also heard Kangerlussuaq boasts a full 18-hole golf course with very modest greens fees and club rentals.
I’m especially interested in, of course, Greenland’s wildlife (although I will not be collecting anything. It’s been almost 11 months, not that I keep track…). Kangerlussuaq is, reportedly, one of the best places in Greenland to see muskox (which you can also try as a pizza topping), caribou, arctic foxes, gyrfalcons, and ptarmigans, among others. On the way to the glacier it looks like we’ll be passing through some beautiful tundra. I’m also curious as to whether there will be any evidence of species turnover in Greenland, from native arctic species to invasive temperate ones. I’ll keep you posted!—Hannah